What is football? Where does its heart lie? Euro 2012 brought new investment to Polish football, and a fleet of bright new stadiums, but outside the cities, football goes on much as it always has. Perhaps the quality isn’t high, perhaps the facilities are ropey, perhaps these games are watched by one man and a dog, but amid the mud and the peeling paint, these dilapidated grounds in Bolmin and Maslowice, Kurow and Chrzstawa, are just as much home to the soul of the Polish game as the vast Naradowy in Warsaw.